Where TF Are the Non-Hourglass Plus-Size Women?

I’m a self-loving 31-year-old woman, but the critique of my body still stings. Plus, the pervasive promotion of one ideal shape has practical effects: It means many plus-size women, like me, have a hard time finding clothes that match our style. While there’s a world of fashion-forward silhouettes for sizes 0 to 12, like straight-cut jeans and one-shoulder tops, the majority of styles for sizes 14-plus reinforce the hourglass archetype, like fit-and-flare dresses. Some of us want shift styles, oversize jackets, and culottes too!

But know that there is hope. Plus-size women are increasingly demanding better options. After extensive feedback from its customers, Eloquii has put resources toward making a range of cuts, like the “Viola” fit, which includes tops, pants, skirts, and dresses designed for women with hips much wider than their bust. “We heard so often that women with this shape can’t wear anything body-con or straight-​cut without the top being too large,” says Eloquii VP of design and creative director Jodi Arnold. “Or they were unable to find a blouse that fit through the shoulders without its being too tight around the hips.” More good news: A fit for fuller waists is coming within the next year. Universal Standard is also trying to tackle the one-size-does-not-fit-all dilemma, starting with its fit models. “We wanted someone who had an ample bust, waist, and bottom,” says cofounder and chief creative officer Alexandra Waldman, “so that we instantly see if there are issues in any of the fuller areas.”

And for Los Angeles–based brand Zelie for She, designer Elann Zelie also considers her own rounder shape. “Hourglass is just one body type,” she says. “When designers limit themselves to designing for that, they dismiss a group of potential customers. I used to make a lot of fit-and-flare styles, but with the oversize dresses and palazzo pants that I now make, people can adjust the garment to where their waistline lands.”

While brands catch on and make changes, I continue to find solutions for styling my proportions. I shop big to fit my bust and shoulders, then have a tailor nip in the hips of my clothes. I always have my Kate Spade leather jacket on hand (the cropped silhouette hits at my natural waist). And I’ve found off-the-rack brands, like ASOS and NYDJ, that work for my body. I’m proof that there’s more than one type of plus-size woman who loves fashion—and whether we’re a size 12 or 22, strawberry, or hell, any shape, we all deserve to be celebrated.

This article originally appeared in the June 2017 issue of Glamour magazine.